Saturday, March 28, 2020

Always expect the unexpected

It may have become obvious that this post was coming. About a week ago the Pacific Crest Trail Association (The group who issued me my PCT permits) sent out an email. The email told people not to hike the PCT this year, and if they were already on the trail, they should stop immediately. The arguments were reasonable and things I had already been thinking about. Some of the stretches of the PCT are quite remote and there is very little water in the desert sections. If you were to contract COVID-19 at a resupply point, or from other hikers, it could require emergency resources to get you back to civilization and be extremely dangerous. Emergency resources I believe will be valuable to people not walking the PCT over the coming months.

So next year? Maybe. This was an incredibly perfect chance to do the hike for a couple of life reasons. Next year may be much harder to put everything on hold for 4 months. Until then we’ll just have to wait and see.

To all of you out there dealing with the current uncertainty; good luck, stay safe, and wash your hands!

Thursday, March 12, 2020

Mostly a success

Monday I pulled together my gear, enough food for roughly two days, and drove to Henry W. Coe state park. This is the park from my first post and in a funny turn of events I walked by where Craig and I has hunkered down for the night under emergency blankets. By 11am I started out on the 13.8 mile journey to my campsite. Two hours into my walk at 7.6 miles I was feeling great. I started to believe that 20 miles a day wouldn’t be to bad. Then at mile 11 the blisters started. I've never gotten blisters backpacking or with the type of shoes I was wearing. Even more odd was that all of them were on my left foot toes. By mile 13 I hit Kelly Lake and instead of continuing the last 0.8 miles to Coit Lake I set up camp and called it a day. The next morning the walk back became progressively more painful as one blister grew to the size of half my big toe, and despite the extra layers of socks and bandaids, popped. The last 2.2 miles were a pathetic hobble. It immediately became clear that if this was to happen on the the PCT I would have to wait days to recover or call it off all together. This is great information to have and in my next outing I’ll be using liner toe socks and maybe a size larger shoe.

While the blisters were the fail part of the hike, they were eclipsed by the win of having no knee pain. Reducing my pack weight to under 20 pounds including food and water did the trick for me knees. I walked 26 miles in two days and other than some calve and hip soreness everything was fine. I’ll be back to Henry W. Coe in a couple weeks to try a three day trip with a total of over 30 miles. Hopefully by then I’ll have the blisters issue under better control.

Robert’s wildlife extravaganza:
  • Bobcat (Watched me from the side of the road then slunk off into the underbrush)
  • Rabbits
  • Desiccated salamander corpses (A ton were strewn throughout the trail)
  • Recently deceased Turkey Vulture (I’d never seen one up close before)
  • Deer
  • Cattle (Ran away from me faster than the Bobcat)
  • Ducks
  • Frogs
  • Hawks from afar (I used to play bass for Hawks From Afar)
  • Coastal Cutthroat Trout
  • Lizards
  • Turkeys

Sunday, March 8, 2020

Every ounce counts?


My knees are not what they used to be (said in a comedic-ally old voice). When I run, after about the 3 mile mark, they begin to hurt and that pain can last for days when I walk. This started after a trail Marathon I ran in 2010 from Tilden park to Hayward and has sadly only gotten worse over the last decade.

A couple of years ago when I was fly fishing in the Sierras I walked about 14.8 miles. At the end of that day my knees began to hurt so badly that I was forced to hitch hike the last mile back to my campsite. For a couple of days after that I was limping. This is the most worrying experience in my history of hiking/backpacking. Due to my other ongoing knee issues I accepted this as the new norm of aging.

Then in an unrelated experience an ENT put me on Prednisone for an extremely bad Chronic Sinus Infection and every knee ache and issue I have experienced since that Marathon was immediately gone. My knees felt like they were 20 again. A quick internet search clearly linked Prednisone to helping joint pain related to Arthritis. After seeing multiple doctors the answer was I might have Osteoarthritis but the x-rays, tests, etc. were inconclusive. Whatever the case is, it does seem like at 40 I have knee limits, which will ultimately dictate how much of this trek I can do. This is why every once may matter.

So here is the current breakdown minus food and water. My ideal weight would be under 14 pounds but it is currently at 15.8:

  1. Very light warm jacket
  2. Fleece top (Will probably choose a lighter option)
  3. Trekking poles (Double as tent poles)
  4. Dungeons & Dragons dice (Priorities)
  5. Chap stick with Sunblock
  6. Cold Soak container (The crazy alternative to a stove. Eat everything cold after you’ve soaked it for a couple of hours in water)
  7. Very light backpack and rain cover
  8. Smart water bottles (Durable and ultralight. The standard for PCT hikers)
  9. Toiletries (Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, first aid, etc.)
  10. Mini towel
  11. Light neck scarf (Surprisingly warm, protects again the sun, etc.)
  12. Long sleeve shirt (Considered to be SPF 50)
  13. Fold-able Bluetooth keyboard (For blogging on the trail. Not sure if it’s worth it. It’s under 4 ounces, the battery lasts for 42 hours of continuous use, but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.
  14. A pouch that attaches to my backpack for my phone and MP3 player
  15. Very small MP3 player (The reason for this is I didn’t want to wear my phone battery down listening to music. The MP3 player is half an ounce, lasts 25 hours, and holds 128gbs of music so it seems worth it)
  16. Headlamp
  17. Lightweight battery pack (Multiple PCT hikers recommended this over a solar panel. Fully charges my phone 1.5 times. In airplane mode enough for about 10 days of use for pictures, GPS maps, etc.)
  18. Mosquito net
  19. Micro leatherman
  20. Rain poncho
  21. Inflatable pad (Insulated for using a quilt and very comfortable. I could go with something much less nice and lighter but this is one of the places I’m really not willing to skimp on)
  22. My tent. So much to say here. This tent is 2.2 pounds and cost about 100 dollars. For 600 dollars I could get a one person tent that weighs 0.9 pounds. This is the biggest decision I’m currently faced with in saving weight. I think I can possibly resew some of my cheap tent and get it down to roughly 1.2 pounds but it may be worth it to just pay the money and immediately drop 1.3 pounds. Again, ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.
  23. Inflatable pillow (Super light and worth the comfort)
  24. Sleeping quilt (All the rage now. Somewhere between a blanket and a sleeping bag. Very lightweight.)
  25. Shorts
  26. Thermal Underwear (Lightweight silk type)
  27. Water Slippers (Lighter sandal alternatives)
  28. Trowel and bidet cap (If you really want to know I’ll tell you what a bidet cap is)
  29. Beanie
  30. 3 x Socks (2 ankle height for hiking and one long pair for sleeping)
  31. Booties for sleeping (This was recommended. I haven’t tried them yet but they are so light and cheap that they seem potentially worth it in colder areas)
  32. Ventilated sun hat
  33. A t-shirt, 3 pairs of underwear, and a handkerchief.
  34. Gloves
  35. Water filter (Another potential weight saving area. The filter I have is nice because it can pull water out of very shallow puddles, which could be important in the desert. The standard for PCT hikers is the lighter sawyer water filter. I'm weighing my options here)
  36. Not shown is my fly fishing gear that is under 5 ounces. To get the weight that low I will be fishing without a reel. Fly fishing really doesn’t require a reel for smaller fish. If I catch a fish in the Sierras over 12 inches it’s considered a monster. Hopefully eating fish will sometimes help with getting calories and protein. I have dehydrated powdered lemon, which I will attempt to use to make Cerviche with the fish. If I was carrying a stove I would just cook it but this will be the cold soak alternative

Have I gone a little crazy about weight? The answer is yes. That said I feel like I have a good reason. If having the lightest pack means I can walk 15 miles a day instead of 10 without knee pain, that will add 665 miles on to my trip before I have to get off the trail in September. So, to go as far as possible, in the allotted time, with the least negative impact on my knees, I’ll be trying to shave off every possible ounce that I can until I hit the trail on May 25th.

Sunday, March 1, 2020

Change of plans

As many of you may know, my wife and I were planning a trip to Europe. We had been pretty excited, seeing that we haven’t had the chance to travel together (except for a short honeymoon) due to life busy-ness and health issues. Needless to say after 9 years of being together we were pretty excited… but sometimes the universe is sending you messages. Sometimes you ignore these messages as long as you can until there is a pile of them visibly blocking your doorway. Well, there has been a lot going on in Europe recently, not just involving COVID-19. We had been planning to go to Turkey and possibly the Greek Islands, which seem to be in an unfortunate escalation with Syria. Also, Tessa threw her back out, and while she has recovered quite a bit in the last two days, sitting up is still painful. A 12 hour plane ride could in fact be agony. It just seems like it’s time to put this trip off until we can there are fewer obstacles and unknowns.

This is extremely disappointing but it does add an extra month of backpacking to test gear and gauge what I can physically handle. We may try the trip at the end of my PCT adventure depending on when I get off the trail but it’s unclear seeing that we don’t want to miss the election in November or even the time leading up to it.

Thursday, February 27, 2020

Where, when, oops

So when I first began planning my trip I used a PCT calculator. There are a couple on the internet and they are all fantastic. After some recent examination it looks like I misunderstand how the one I used calculated mileage. I thought it was averaging out to roughly 15 mile days consistently but it looks like it put in quite a few 20-25 mile days. This is on me for not looking through everything better. That said, it seems as though if I go at the pace I’m currently shooting for I will only get to the 1500 mile mark before my permits expire (around Dunsmuir). Also, October backpacking in the Northern California mountains will probably be getting pretty darn cold. I imagine as I near the end of the trip I will have make some rough decisions on whether to go slow, enjoy the experience, and end in Dunsmuir or haul ass and just barely get to the California/Oregon border. I think I’ll just play it by ear but I wouldn’t trust any of the below dates after Tuolumne Meadows. Anyone who wants to come camp with me for a night or two is more than welcome to join me at any stop, starting with Big Bear.

Start Southern Terminus (Tessa drops me off) - May 25th
- Travel 107.2 miles
Warner Springs (Meeting Tessa) - stay June 2nd - 4rd
- Travel 70 miles
Idyllwild (Meeting family) - stay June 9th - 11th
- Travel 86.2 miles
Big Bear - stay June 17th - 18th
- Travel 95 miles
Wrightwood - stay June 24th - 26th
- Travel 80.1 miles
Acton Los Angeles North KOA Holiday - stay July 2nd - 3rd
- Travel 114.7 miles
Tehachapi/Stay in town (Meeting parents) - stay July 11th - 12th
- Travel 144.8 miles
Kennedy Meadows Campground - stay July 22nd - 24th
- Travel 155.5 miles
Muir Trail Ranch (Meeting brother in law) - stay August 3rd - 4th
- Travel 16.8 miles
Vermillion Valley Resort at Lake Edison (Resting meeting people and family. All are welcome.) - stay August 7th - 11th
- Travel 158.9 miles
Tuolumne Meadows Campground - stay August 22nd - 23rd
- Travel 146.6 miles
South Lake Tahoe Near Echo Lake Campground - stay August 30th - 31st
- Travel 106.8 miles
Sierra City/Wild Plum Campground - stay Sept 7th - 8th
- Travel 179.7 miles
Hat Creek/Hat Creek Campground - stay Sept 19th - 20th
- Travel 129.6 miles
Dunsmuir/Stay in town - stay Sept 27th - 28th
- Travel 99.5 miles
Etna - stay Oct 3rd - 4th
- Travel 76.6 miles to border trailhead (Tessa picks me up) - Oct 10th

The later dates could always change so always feel free to text me and I’ll connect with you when I have reception on the trail.

Saturday, February 8, 2020

What could possibly go wrong

I don’t always know when to quit, which is exacerbated by the fact that I have been known to set unrealistic goals for myself. This has resulted in some very extreme outcomes in my life. One such event involves me collapsed on a fire road, shivering under an emergency blanket unable to get back to my car. The story of how I found myself in this situation is as follows.

When I was 23 my friend Craig and I decided we were going to go for a bike ride at Henry Co, the second largest state park in California. The park is comprised of seemingly endless deep valleys and sparse oak trees sitting upon, what is known as, the Diablo mountain range, which some people would refer to as foreshadowing.

Craig had a nice mountain bike that he kept in decent condition. I on the other hand had an older bike that I had let fall into disrepair. This did not deter me and we began to plan our day trip. We poured over a map of the park and various lakes that we could visit. Soon after we began egging each other on. The small pond that was 3 miles from the ranger station wouldn't be much of a ride, surely we could ride another 5 miles. Another 5? Why not 10? By the time we set out we were planning to reach a lake 15 miles into the park. What could possibly go wrong we said!

The morning started out a pleasant ride along the ridge to the first pond. The 3 miles were indeed laughable. That was too easy we agreed. It was definitely the right idea to go deeper into the park. Down from the ridge we quickly made our way along small windy rocky paths. Up out of the valley we rode...then walked...then struggled. The heat of the day had begun to set in and the temperature in the park quickly broke 100 degrees. By the time we traversed the first valley I was running low on water and we were only 5 miles into our 30 mile total ride. This is the time where smart people would have turned around and headed back... smart reasonable people, people who were not us. We continued to egg each other on. In our heads we had already completed 1/3 of our journey to our destination. Why turn around now? So we forged on.

The temperatures became shockingly hot. Our water ran low as Craig shared what he had with me, and the hills ground each of us into a sweaty miserable husk of a human. By the time we reached our destination we were beyond exhausted. I had started to feel extremely nauseous, which we would eventually understand was heat exhaustion setting in. This would not be our biggest problem of the day.

After a short rest on the lake we started our ride back. This was when my bikes handlebars began to wiggle loose. No longer could I turn or even maintain a straight line without the front wheel turning sideways in the opposite direction I attempting to steer. Craig had a multi-tool but it couldn't begin to fix my bikes loose neck. I eventually used some wire I had brought and tried to attach the ends of each handlebar to the corresponding side of the bikes fork. This worked as well as you would expect. Within an hour I had gone over my handlebars multiple times. We were eventually forced to walk.

I began to feel sicker and more fatigued, so I asked Craig for a break and laid down in a dry riverbed. I immediately fell asleep. After a short while I awoke and it was clear that if we didn't press on we would be attempting to find our way in the dark. The sun was setting and we still had 8 miles to go. We had not brought warm clothing and if we couldn't make it back to the ranger station we would be in for a very cold night. I had brought two Mylar emergency blankets but it was unclear how much warmth they would provide.

This was the death march. This was when I realized that up until this point in my life I had never pushed my body to its limit. I had been fatigued, burnt out, or simply unwilling to continue something but nothing compared to this. Now, in the dark struggling to walk and sick and getting cold, every time I would have normally stopped I continued. The sun set and the stars came out and I eventually collapsed. I apologized to Craig. We were two miles from our cars and I simply could not continue. Craig politely pulled out the emergency blankets, we lay down in the middle of a fire road, and went to sleep in the increasingly cold night.

Suddenly I opened my eyes to a blinding light. As I came to my senses I realized I was watching an older tan Ford Bronco slowly make its way up the road. Unknown to us there were some small parts of the park that were privately owned and we were encountering some of these residents returning from hunting on their property. It must have been a shocking sight for them to be driving in the pitch dark, then turn a corner only to see two metallic lumps in the center of the road. I can't imagine their surprise and confusion when the lumps began to move.

When the car pulled up, and the window rolled down, we saw three men in the front seats staring back at us. This is when I began to throw up everything in my stomach. Craig immediately began to beg for a ride, while simultaneously trying to convince the men that I would not throw up in their car. After briefly talking among themselves the driver turned to us and said "As long as you don't mind ridin with the dead pig”. In the back was indeed a large dead wild pig and neither Craig nor I hesitated for a moment. Our salvation covered our biking equipment in boars blood and delivered us from those hills. A stroke of luck ended the day I pushed my body harder than I ever have since.

Why tell this story to start this blog? As I stare down one of the most physically demanding experiences of my life I will have to keep in mind that just because I have set a goal to walk 1700 miles does not mean I have to push myself further than is healthy or safe. In essence, this post is a reminder that I don't get to decide what this journey will be. I'll walk as far as I can and if my knees give out after four days, or I only make it halfway, that's okay.

I'm going on an adventure and we will see where and how far it takes me.